• The stomach pressed between two wood boards - Združenje izdelovalcev Zgornjesavinjskega želodca
  • Filling the stomach with the meat filling - Združenje izdelovalcev Zgornjesavinjskega želodca
  • The sign on farms where they produce the Upper Savinja Valleey stomach sausage - Maja Godina Golija
  • Upper Savinja Valley stomch sausage and other homemade delicacies served to guests at the tourist farm - Maja Godina Golija
  • An oblong form of a stomach, which is becoming more and more popular among caterers - Maja Godina Golija
  • View on Podvolovljek in the Savinja Alps - Maja Godina Golija
  • Upper Savinja Valley stomch sausage - Maja Godina Golija
  • Granary, a typical building for drying Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage - Maja Godina Golija
  • Packaged and certified Upper Savinja Valley stomach ready for sale - Maja Godina Golija
  • Ripe and appropriately dried Upper Savinja Valley stomachs - Maja Godina Golija
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Category

Technical Knowledge

TAG

WHERE

Štajerska/Styria -

WHEN

Production of the Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage is carried out yearly in the wintertime.

WHO

Goličnik Marjan Goličnik Marjan
(farmer)
Petek Lojze Petek Lojze
(farmer)

Production of Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage

(žalodc)

Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage is a unique dry meat product made on farms in the Upper Savinja Valley. If production of domestic meat sausages and salami was extensive in other Slovenian Alpine areas, the making of stuffed stomachs was popular in the Savinja Valley and in the Savinja Alps, and has been preserved to this day. Upper Savinja stomach sausage is named after the casing – pig stomach (pork maw), inside which the meat stuffing is filled. Pork bladder, intestine, and artificial permeable covers are also used for the casings. The origin of the recipe for the production of Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage is unknown, but the oldest mention of this item dates back to the 17th century. Certainly, the centuries-old production of stuffed and dried stomachs has been influenced by the special microclimate of this area, characterized by the many spruce forests, high mountainous areas and intertwining running waters. In addition to the microclimate of the region, the microclimate of the chambers where the stomachs are dried, and the rich knowledge and experience of the people who produce this dry meat specialty are likewise crucial for the proper drying and maturing of the traditional flat stuffed sausages. As a rule, this knowledge is transmitted through the male line within the family from generation to generation. As we were told by Lojze Petek from Podvolovljek, one of the most renowned producers of Upper Savinja stomach sausage, he learned how to make stuffed dried stomachs in his home, observing his father at work for almost 40 years and helping him prepare the stuffed stomachs. His father's basic instructions for making the Upper Savinja stomach sausage are still taken into account today. Stuffed stomachs are made by producers in the winter, that is at the time of the slaughter, most often between the end of November and 15 January, because the Upper Savinja stomach sausage requires up to 5 months of drying and ripening to mature after having been filled. The filling is prepared from the finest pork meat – leg, ribs and shoulder, cut at the time of slaughter and left resting for a day. The quality of the meat, as producers have emphasized, is extremely important, so they take care that the pigs get quality fodder rather than swill. Finally, ground ​​hard bacon (up to 25%) is added, and the filling sprinkled with garlic water, salt, pepper and a small amount of sugar. In the case of stuffed stomachs that are protected by the EU, the use of nitrites and other additives is not permitted, though they tend to be used by manufacturers without a certificate. When the stomach casings are filled, they are stored in a cold place, pressed tightly between a pair of wooden boards. This is how the stomach sausage receives its typical flat shape, packed filling density and height. The sausages are left in the cold room for a week while the juices separate from the ground meat. Then, stomach sausage is transferred to the dryers where the temperature is about 10 degrees. Often, dryers are arranged in traditional wooden buildings – granaries which must exhibit good airflow, adequate moisture and the scent of the surrounding spruce forests. Here, the stomachs are dried for several months, most often between 4 and 5. The drying of stomach sausage is the most demanding task in the whole production cycle. During drying, Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage must be turned over several times a week, and scraped with a sharp knife or cleaned with a coarse cloth, since juices still form during the drying process and create unsuitable linings. When the Upper Savinja stomach sausage is matured, it has a firm texture, a characteristic shape and height, and is suitable for cutting into thin, long slices. Upper Savinja stomach sausage is a recognized dry meat specialty from the area of ​​the Upper Savinja Valley, which plays an important role in the daily and festive life of the local population. In the past it was served only during religious holidays and festivities, weddings for example, the baptism or confirmation of a child, during Easter, the Feast of Corpus Christi, or periods of particularly tasking farm labour, for example when mowing meadows and or during heavy-duty forestry tasks. Today, Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage remains a stable of celebrations and festivities, as well as hearty meals and the catering offer of the area. Traditionally, it was served thinly cut on dark bread and with cider, whereas now it is a component of various meals alongside other typical Savinja Valley foods. As a culinary landmark of this region of Slovenia it has become a distinctive local product which is also purchased widely by the tourists as a food souvenir, on tourist farms and across the local markets. Quality Upper Savinja stomach sausage is the pride of every farm in the region, praised and cherished by the local people.

HISTORICAL-ANALYTICAL NOTES

Knowledge of the production of Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage has several centuries' history and was mostly transmitted by oral tradition. The oldest written indication of the Upper Savinja stomach sausage is from 1620. It has been preserved in the accompanying list of meat products sent by the farmers from Gornji Grad as a gift to Bishop Tomaž Hren in Graz. Since 1930, a handwritten recipe has been preserved for the production of filled Upper Savinja stomach sausage on the Logar farm, which accurately lists all the ingredients and procedure for making this dry meat specialty. Aleksander Videčnik describes that in August 1932, King George V of England and King Alexander of Yugoslavia visited the Logar Valley. In the hotel he was offered the Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage, over which the king of England was apparently so enthusiastic it was later regularly supplied to the English court in special wooden boxes. In the past, the stuffed Upper Savinja Valley stomach was a highly appreciated top-tier dish, an element of festive menus and ritual consumption on special occasions. It was eaten only on major holidays and during heavy farm labour, for example during Easter, Pentecost, weddings, harvest, mowing or heavy forestry. The Upper Savinja stomach sausage was also gifted to important locals, for example priests, mayors, gendarmes or doctors. As a widespread custom, the man of the farm would present newlyweds who brought wedding invitations a gift – flat stomach sausage or pork shoulder. In the past, it was believed that every farmer, including the poorer ones, had to make during slaughter season at least three stuffed stomach sausages, kept well wrapped or in ash, for festive holidays or occasions of significance to the community.

LEARNING AND TRANSMISSION

The process of learning the production of Upper Savinja stomach sausage was often carried out within families exclusively, and was transmitted from elders – from fathers to sons. With regard to the demanding manufacturing processes, a rich oral tradition has been preserved, which is taken into consideration by the makers of the Upper Savinja stomach sausage even today. Nowadays, specialists are involved in the training of manufacturers of the stuffed stomach, e.g. dr. Stanko Renčelj from the University of Ljubljana. Traditionally, only the male offspring learned to make Upper Savinja stomach sausage in the family, women today are also interested in this item. Some of them have even become award-winning producers of Upper Savinja stomach sausage.

COMMUNITY

Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage is an important element of the traditional and modern diet of the inhabitants of the Savinja Valley, which plays an exceptional role in the formation and development of regional identity. It is the element of cultural heritage that is most often highlighted by people in this area as its distinctive cultural characteristic, and is often presented to visitors. In addition to this role, Upper Savinja stomach sausage is also part of the economic activities of the inhabitants of this area. The production of Upper Savinja stomach sausage is in the Upper Savinja Valley an important additional activity on farms. The production and sale of stomach sausage is linked to tourism, trade, agriculture and catering in the area. As a result, activities for the promotion and protection of Upper Savinja Valley sausage have had a rich history. As early as in 1990, the Tourist Association Rečica by Savinja (Turistično društvo Rečica ob Savinji) started the procedures for the protection and promotion of Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage, taking care of professionally managed education and quality improvement of this meat product. Today, the work is successfully continued by the Association of Producers of the Upper Savinja Valley Stomach Sausage (Združenje izdelovalcev Zgornjesavinjskega želodca).

PROMOTIONAL ACTIONS

Today, the name Upper Savinja stomach sausage (zgornjesavinjski želodec), which is protected in the EU with a PGI, is often abused in the catering industry and tourism. Under this name assorted dry meat products are sold that do not deserve to carry the designation and are not made according to the traditional recipe. Some inns in the Savinja Valley offer lower quality and cheaper knock-offs of this product; therefore they are unfair competition for producers who care about high quality and traditional recipe. Many producers from the Upper Savinja Valley do not initiate a procedure to protect their product, because the process is demanding and expensive and they do not necessarily want their production procedure of Upper Savinja stomach sausage to be controlled. Most manufacturers believe it is easier to sell stuffed stomachs called Savinjski želodec (Savinja stomach sausage) without certification and without control.

PROTECTIVE MEASURES

The Association of Producers of the Upper Savinja Valley Stomach Sausage, and the Tourist Association Rečica by Savinja in 2004 started activities to provide the Upper Savinja stomach sausage with the European Protected Geographical Indication – PGI. First, Slovenia adopted a rulebook on the geographical indication of the Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage (2004). After that, in June 2011, the collective trademark Zgornjesavinjski želodec(Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage) was adopted, and in November 2011 the Upper Savinja stomach sausage received its EU protection – PGI. Because of the costly and complicated procedure, only three producers of this meat currently hold a PGI certificate. Certification in the Register of Intangible Heritage of Slovenia was finished in December 2018.

Related Intangible Heritage

Pig slaughter in the Western Karavanke mountains
Pig slaughter in the Western Karavanke mountains

To learn more

Web Sites

Bibliography

  • Slokan Polona, Udovč Andrej
    Society and economy - Zgornjesavinjski želodec (Upper Savinja Valley stomach sausage) - a Slovene PGI product
  • Renčelj Stanislav
    Želodec in jedi Zgornjesavinjske doline
    Združenje izdelovalcev Zgornjesavinjskega želodca 2007

Produced by

Research Centre of the Slovenian Academy of Sciences and Arts - Institute of Slovenian Ethnology - Miha Peče

Scientific Advisor

Godina Golija, Maja

Release Date

11-JAN-2019 (Miha Peče )

Last update

17-JUN-2019 (Špela Ledinek Lozej )

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